In his recent Wine School
column, Eric Asimov described Red Zinfandel as being a “polarizing” wine. With
its robust fruit, full body, and high alcohol, there will certainly be those
who love Zinfandel and those who find it to be too much of a good thing. But
whether you’re a neophyte, an expert, or still on the fence, now is the perfect
time to pull some corks, because the 2012 vintage is a knockout.
The Back Story
The grape
itself has a long history, having originated in Croatia as Tribidrag. It is also
called Primitivo, where it flourishes in Italy. But its greatest success is
in California,
where it is used to make red and “white” Zinfandel. This can be a little
confusing, as the highly popular white zinfandel is actually a sweet rose or ‘blush’
wine. Red zinfandel is almost always dry, although the fruit flavors can be so
exuberant that it can be jammy at times. There are also more restrained styles
of Zinfandel, with somewhat lower alcohol and a dryer fruit profile.
Old Vines
Love ‘em or
leave ‘em, Zin represents great value. Many producers use fruit that comes from
very old vines, up to one hundred years old and more in some cases. Old vines
produce smaller yields and increase concentration and depth. And Zinfandel is a
true American wine, having traveled from afar to a place where it can fully
express its unapologetically extroverted personality. With Labor Day
approaching and summer nearing its end, get ready to fire up the grill and
treat yourself to an American classic – Red Zin.
Ridge East Bench 2012 Dry Creek Valley
Deep purple
with pink on the rim. Plummy nose with light spices, berries, minerals and
smoke. Powerful, sexy, complex nose. Red and black fruits with chocolate on the
full-bodied palate. Mouth coating tannins and a long, powerful finish with
fruit and tannins. Great balance. Fresh, with mouthwatering acidity. Very
integrated in all aspects. Drinking great now, and it really wowed our staff.
With air, earth develops on the nose with a hint of band aid (a medicinal
aroma) that follows through to the palate. A full-throttled wine, loaded with
pleasure. 100% Zinfandel. $32.99
Ridge Geyserville 2012
Opaque purple
color. A bit more restrained than the East Bench with smoke, blue, and black
fruits on the nose. An elegant, full-bodied palate with red and black fruits
that could use a few years in the bottle but is nonetheless a pleasure to drink
right now. Has great structure, depth and complexity. The blend is 71%
Zinfandel, 19% Carignane, 7% Petite Sirah, 1% Alicante Bouschet and 1% Mataro (Mourvèdre). $37.99
Bedrock 2012 Old Vine Sonoma Valley
When I was first getting into wine, one of my favorite
wines was the Ravenswood Vintner’s Blend Zinfandel. So it comes as little
surprise that I would totally enjoy the Bedrock Wine Company’s Sonoma Valley
Zin, since the founder and winemaker at Bedrock is Morgan Twain-Peterson, the
son of Ravenswood Winery founder Joel Peterson. Very pretty ruby/purple color.
Subtle nose with flowers, spices, and berries. The rich texture reminds me of a
top Northern Rhone Syrah from a hot vintage, such as 2009. Delicious,
full-bodied palate with dry extract, spice, berries and cherries. Abundant but smooth
tannins. Good balance. Long finish. $29.99
Selby 2012 Sonoma
County Old Vines
Dark red with
pink and brown highlights. Blackberry and soft spices on the nose. Very round
and smooth on the palate with good balance and structure. Full-bodied and packs
a punch but has depth. Great Zin at a minimal price. Old Vines with an average
of 65 years from Alexander, Dry Creek and Russian River
Valleys. 760 Cases
produced. $14.99
–Christian Botta
