A recent sake
tasting at Garnet demonstrated that interest in sake is on the rise. When many
of our customers were asked if they would like to taste a selection of sakes,
their response was, “Oh, yes! Please!” It’s clear that they are intrigued and
open to experimenting, yet many sake newbies have questions. With this in mind,
let’s take a look at sake types, grades, serving, and how to choose the best
sake for you.
Rice Milling
Rice milling
is the key to sake quality. As more of the outer portion of the rice kernel is
milled or ground away, a higher quality sake is produced. Other important factors include whether or
not alcohol is added, pasteurization, and filtering. The categorization of sake
can be a little confusing, but we’ll do our best to make things crystal clear.
Sake Categories and Grades
The most basic
type of sake is Futsu-shu. More alcohol may be added than in the higher grades,
and there is no minimum rice milling requirement. Junmai sake is a step up in
quality. Although the milling rate must be listed on the bottle, there is no
minimum requirement. No alcohol may be added. Honjozo grade sake requires that
30% of the rice must be milled away; alcohol may be added. Tokubetsu means
“special,” and is a designation that can be added as a pre-fix, as in
“Tokubetsu-Junmai.” Gingo grade sake must have at least 40% of the rice milled
away. There are both Junmai Gingo and plain Gingo sakes. Paying attention?
Alcohol may be added to the Gingo, but not Junmai-Gingo! Top grade sake is called Daigingo, which must
have a minimum of 50% of the rice milled away. It can be either Junmai-Daigingo
or just Daigingo, in which alcohol may be added. Top Junmai-Daigingo have an
ethereal smoothness that is worth seeking out, although the prices are high.
Another type
of sake which many sake lovers know is Nigori, which is unfiltered. This
produces a cloudy, milky effect and heavier, softer texture. Many Nigori are
somewhat sweet on the palate, although there are Nigori that are strikingly dry.
Sweet Nigori make perfect dessert sake. Namazake designates sakes that are un-pasturized.
They have a round texture and beautiful depth. Some are faintly sweet, with
earthy round flavors. They are good for aperitifs, with the meal, or after
dinner enjoyment. Both Nigori and Namazake must be refrigerated.
Sake Producers
When choosing
a sake, in much the same way as when choosing a fine wine, the producer can’t
be overemphasized. Top producers to look for include Ichishima, Wakatake, Nanbu
Bijin, and Eiko Fuji, although there are many other producers of fine sake,
including some in California,
such as Sho Chiku Bai. What do top producers do that the others don’t? It’s
mainly about the care that goes into the brewing, quality of rice, and other
factors. Some top producers may mill at a higher rate within a given quality
designation than is required. For example, Ichishima’s Futsu-shu sake has a 35%
average milling rate, higher than the required rate for Honjozo.
Dry Vs. Sweet
Customers
often ask me, ‘Is sake sweet?’ Not generally. There are some sweet sakes, such
as a sweet nigori or specialty sakes that are flavored and usually low in
alcohol, and mostly made for the U.S. market. But the majority
of sake is technically dry with only a slight fruitiness, and some are
aggressively dry.
Serving Sake
OK, so now
you’ve got your sake – how are we going to serve it? Many people think of sake
as being served warm in little cups or box-shaped cedar vessels, and of course
you can still do that – it creates an extremely cozy effect, and brings out
different flavors and textures. The best sakes are meant to be served chilled
however, and a medium-sized wine or other type of glass will help to enhance
the aromatics.
The names of
many sakes describe the desired results: Demon
Slayer, Super Demon Slayer, Drunken Heart. Is it my imagination or does
sake have a special, calming effect that few other libations provide? There is
something about a good Nama or Daigingo that seems to melt away the worries of
the world. Let your own palate and by extension, spirit be the judge. And don’t
forget to join us for a one day sake sale at Garnet on August 20, 2014, where
there will be a 10% discount on every bottle of sake sold. We will also have an
in-store sake tasting that day from 4:30 to 7:30pm – don’t miss it! –Christian
Botta
