Garnet's Eastern European Wine Tasting

Garnet held a tasting of European wines in the store on Thursday, November 13, and there were plenty of tasty, good value wines on hand. The NY Sales Manager Dalibor Kostan of U.S.A. Wine Imports was on hand to provide an excellent informational presentation, while color commentary was provided by Zlatko Hriljac, the “Godfather of Slovenian wines.”

2013 Pullus Pinot Grigio

From Slovenia. Very pale copper, a beautiful color. Peach on the nose. Crisp, dry, mineral, good finish. Highly quaffable and very refreshing yet thought-provoking at the same time. They’ve been making wine in the same location since 1239! ($12.99)

2012 Enjingi Grasevina Welschriesling

From Croatia. The name is a mouthful and so is the wine! A dry late harvest white, this is certified organic with no added sulfites. Rich nose with nutmeg, minerals, flowers. Round on the palate and full-bodied with a long finish. ($12.49)

2013 Ivica Pilizota Plavina

A small production red wine that is aged in stainless steel. Some soft woody tones despite the absence of oak. Cherry fruit and a mineral component frame the long finish. ($12.99)

2012 Pilizota Winery Babic

From a waterfront vineyard. Beautiful ruby color, although the nose is a bit shy. The palate makes up for it though with dry, medium-bodied berry fruit that is quaffable with good balance. ($16.99)

2012 Kozlovic Estate Teran

Opaque ruby purple robe. The grape Teran provides a perfumed raspberry nose to this red that is made by a fifth generation wine maker. Aged in large Slovenian casks, there is some band-aid on the palate which also has good red fruits and a smooth finish. Juicy and delicious. ($16.99)

2010 Katunar Vineyards Anton Syrah

This syrah undergoes a native yeast fermentation. There is an attractive floral nose with good complexity on the palate, soft tannins and a very good finish. Nice balance is complemented by tasty dry cherry fruit flavors. ($15.99)

2010 Zlatan Plavac

Translucent ruby with brown highlights. There is some earth on the nose. From young vines, this descendent of Zinfandel has a touch of sweet oak on the nose from the huge oak casks that the wine is aged in. Quite dry with a good finish. ($17.99)

2009 Enjingi Zweigelt

Made from the Zwiegelt grape, a dry late harvest provides richness to this biodynamic red wine, and winemaker Ivan Enjingi makes his own barrels by hand. There is some sweet oak on the nose. There is a similarity to pinot fruit on the palate, plus an earthy mineral component. Medium bodied, smooth and lush. ($20.99) –Christian Botta

Photo: Jason Johnson

Garnet's Holiday Tasting a Major Success - Happy Thanksgiving!

We want to say thanks to our customers who made this year’s Grand Holiday Tasting a big success. The event was moved back to the main event space at the National Bohemian Hall at 321 East 73rd Street and there was a large and enthusiastic crowd on hand to sample from over sixty white, red, sparkling, dessert wines and more.

A small portion of the wines that really stood out for me would include Domaine Pierre Savoye Morgon Vieilles Vignes Cote du Py 2011, a medium-bodied Cru Beaujolais that sports an enticing nose with gamey spice and mushroom aromas. The palate is dry and balanced with rich, dark fruit flavors. This wine would make a perfect accompaniment for any Thanksgiving meal ($16.99). 

The Tormaresca Aglianico Bocca di Lupo 2007 is a knockout and perfect for someone who yens for a full-bodied wine that has some age and is ready to go. The dark fruit flavors, well-integrated oak, acidity, and supple tannins are all in perfect balance. The Feudi di San Gregorio Greco di Tufo 2012 is a charmer that won’t break the bank, with soft white fruits on the palate and balanced acidity to keep you coming back for another sip ($15.99).  

A wine that would go beautifully towards the end of the Thanksgiving meal (or any meal) or as an aperitif is the Domaine d’Orfeuilles Vouvray Reserve d’Automne 2002. A dessert wine made of 100% Chenin Blanc, this wine is mature with beautiful flavors reminiscent of roasted almonds and honey along with a magnificent texture ($26.99). The Domaine Grosbois Chinon “Gabare” 2011 is robust and ready to go, a silky expression of Cabernet Franc that will satisfy those in search of a full-bodied wine with earthy dark fruit flavors and tons of finesse ($29.99).

Pinot Noir is a staple of the Thanksgiving dinner table, as are American Wines. You can’t go wrong on either count with the Soter Vineyards Pinot Noir North Valley 2012, a gorgeous wine that has precise but exuberant berry fruit along with spices framed by a solid structure of tannin and acidity that will work with a large spread ($31.99).

Sale prices for those that attended the event will be honored until Tuesday, November 18^th. Have a Happy Thanksgiving from everyone at Garnet!

–Christian Botta

Photos: Jason Johnson

New York Mutual Trading Company Sake Expo

Last month we had the good fortune to attend a terrific industry event, the New York Mutual Trading Company’s Sake and Food Expo. The event is loaded with sake and beer brewers, distillers of shochu, and all manner of food purveyors and manufacturers of kitchen implements and supplies.

The result is a veritable wonderland for the fan of Japanese food and beverages. It’s easy to get lost in all the yummy tastes, sights and activities, which included classes on beverage and food pairing, the basics of sake, and more. The hardest thing is to tear yourself away from the event and head back whatever lesser reality is calling you. 

The festivities led me to sample several new products that we are now carrying and I would like to take this chance to mention them. Oze No Yukidoke is one of the top sake producers in Japan and we have been trying to fit one of their lovely sakes into our line-up since last year. The time was right and we are now proud to offer their Junmai Gingo ‘Omachi’ which is named after a famous type of rice. It has a soft palate, great aromatics and a voluptuous, full bodied texture. The price tag is well within reason for such a world-class sake, $28.99.

Another new item is the Kuro Yokaichi Imo Shochu. This 24% ABV charmer makes a great aperitif or cocktail and it has a subtle but distinct flavor of sweet potatoes, from which it is made. Finally, the rich to almost decadent Tenjumai Uma-Gin Gingo sake is another welcome addition. Earthy with subtle fruit flavors and a very full-bodied texture, this sake makes a perfect accompaniment for rich meat and fish dishes or your favorite sushi. The cost is $36.99.  

And don’t forget – Garnet is having a Holiday Grand Tasting on Tuesday, November 11^th at the Bohemian Hall, 321 East 73rd Street between 5:30 – 8:30pm. There is a $20 fee for the three hour event. Tickets are available on our website. All three of the sakes/shochu mentioned above will be tasted! There is a 10% discount on all wines, champagne and sake at the tasting. –Christian Botta

Jim Clendenen - Au Bon Climat's 'Mind Behind'

Much has been written about Au Bon Climat winemaker Jim Clendenen, to the point where one might imagine that he is even more complex than his wines. But in person he is open and approachable, much like his delicious pinot noir and chardonnay bottlings are in 2012. I met Jim at his NY Distributor Verity Wines’ portfolio tasting late in the summer and spoke with him on the phone a few weeks later. He told me that Garnet was the first company in Manhattan that he ever sold wine to, way back in 1984. Clendenen is truly a man who loves what he does, and having a conversation with him on winemaking is a real treat.

Located in Santa Barbara County, the Au Bon Climat winery is just about dead center of the Santa Maria Valley AVA. Santa Maria Valley is a cool climate growing region, what many consider the perfect spot for cultivating Chardonnay and Pinot Noir grapes in the Burgundian style. Jim started Au Bon Climat in 1982, and he has long been associated with Bob Lindquist, who went on to found Qupé, another French-influenced Santa Barbara Winery. “Bob and my friendship and working relationship is unchanged,” Jim says.  “We’re still really good friends, we still make wine in the same building since 1989.”

2014 Vintage

When I spoke with Jim, the crop was still on the vines. I asked him how the 2014 vintage was turning out. “We will pick well earlier, color good, smaller yields, ie two tons vs 3.5 ton range. Not as top notch as 2012-13. It worked out just fine for somebody that wants to make wine the way I want to make wine. We just want to make balanced wines and preserve the acidity.” When asked what he thought of the difficult 2011 vintage, he responded, “Only thing with 2011s is trying to make money,” suggesting that he is OK with drinking a leaner styled, more delicate wine.

The Use of Indigenous Yeast

On the subject of indigenous yeast, a hot topic for today’s winemakers, Jim explained, “I want the yeast to be active. I want it to make the wine go dry. We tried indigenous yeast for a long time. We never had much luck. We add a yeast cultivated in Germany to our chardonnay for example. No one knows what the most dominant yeast is. We don’t want to end up with a stuck fermentation. We want to have things start in balance, and we want to have them finish.”

Wine Ingredients on Bottles?

Another question facing wineries now is the subject of what information should be put on wine labels regarding ingredients. Jim declares that the process would be “pretty straight forward for us. The amount of things that we put in are few and far between. Tartaric acid, (for example). I object to doing anything systematically. We don’t add water unless absolutely necessary.”

Marching to a Different Drummer

Considering his somewhat rebellious image, it isn’t too surprising to hear Jim’s response regarding the trend of bigger and bigger wines. “The critical paradigm in America goes for easy flavors. They found our wine nervous, acidic and tight.” As to the critical faves and top scoring wines, he adds that he finds them “bombastic – they deliver a boring product. That’s all I’m gonna say.”

Asked about his influences and idols in winemaking, he points to numerous Burgundian masters. But the names of his friend Dominique Lafon, the managing director of the Compte-Lafon in Meursault, and Henri Jayer, the Cotes de Nuits legend, seem to come up again and again. He adds that “There are a million Burgundian models.”

The attractive labels on Jim’s wines are nothing out of the ordinary – the pinot noir has purple coloring, and the chard has golden yellow lettering. But when you look a little closer and see that the title of ‘winemaker’ has been replaced by ‘Mind Behind,’ you know you are in for something a little different. The reasonable pricing of Clendenen’s Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, around $20, makes them very attractive choices for the budding wine geek looking to try something a bit conceptual that is also the product of experience, dedication and great terroir.

Au Bon Climat Pinot Noir 2012

Translucent ruby red. Strawberries, incense and cherries on the nose. Crème Fraise on the nose. A floral quality as well – roses? Medium bodied and elegant. Very light tannins at first, very ripe fruit. Good balance although not a ton of acidity for a Pinot Noir. Very good finish. Smooth texture. “Alcohol soaked cherries,” says my friend Danny. Has the weight and complexity of a nice Chassagne-Montrachet Rouge in a ripe vintage, which 2012 certainly is. Tannins and acidity come up at the end of the bottle suggesting that the wine will age well in the medium term.

Au Bon Climat Chardonnay 2012

A bright medium gold color. Nose a little shy right now. Some oak on the nose but not overpowering along with light cream and citrus. What a palate though! Medium bodied. Excellent flavors of citrus, mineral, and lemon meringue pie. Delicious stuff. Clean, bright acidity. Excellent balance. Vibrant. Explosive mid-palate and a very long finish. Really satisfying and fun to drink. Everyone on the staff loved it. –Christian Botta

Garnet’s Fall Harvest Wine Tasting

Garnet held its Fall Harvest Wine Tasting last Wednesday and it was truly an exciting event.  There were plenty of great wines on hand and of course, our loyal customers. The event was held at the Bohemian Hall, in a recently renovated space. The formerly upscale restaurant was re-imagined as a Czech beer garden called Hospoda, in honor of the World Cup in June. The beautiful artwork and lighting lent a glamorous and intimate vibe to the proceedings, and there were many happy faces among both wine tasters and wine pourers alike.

There were many delicious wines on offer, too many to mention here. But a few that stood out would have to include the Louis Roederer Brut Rose Champagne, which managed to be both exuberant and complex, with a dash of earthy red fruits and a sumptuous mousse. The tank-aged Heitz Cellars Chardonnay was beautifully balanced with refreshing citrus fruit leading the way. The Domaine des Tilleuls “Clos Village” 2012 Gevrey-Chambertin was medium-bodied with good concentration, black cherry fruit and a long, earthy finish. The Luis Pato Vinhas Velhas Branco had great minerality, fresh acidity and it’s a terrific value, to boot. The Botter Prosecco Extra Dry is my favorite prosecco. With a little more body than usual, it’s very dry and has terrific, fine bubbles.

Sale prices for all items continue until October 8^th for your convenience. We will return to the usual site of our tastings in the upstairs, larger event space at the Bohemian Hall for our next tasting, the November Holiday Tasting. See you there!

-Christian Botta
Photo: Jason Johnson

Merlot: Bordeaux Grape Family Stepchild?

It seems like a long time since merlot was a trendy wine, but most wine lovers remember how the movie Sideways ended Merlot’s reign, and temporarily placed the more fickle – and more expensive – Pinot Noir in it’s place for a minute or two. And although Malbec has since replaced them both as a popular red of choice, the stigma attached to the innocent and useful Merlot grape is still alive, whether real or imagined.

“Another Glass of Merlot?”

Even hardened wine geeks feel it. It’s so ingrained that when I go to one of my favorite restaurants, Arturo’s in the Village, I feel slightly paranoid ordering a Merlot, one of the best by the glass options. It goes with just about everything, spaghetti carbonara, shrimp scampi, fried calamari, chicken cacciatore, you name it. Nonetheless, it is with trepidation that I call the waiter over and ask, “Can I have another glass of Merlot?” It seems like the right time to clear up some of the misconceptions surrounding Merlot.

Origins in Bordeaux Wine Grape Family

I remember bringing a bottle of merlot over to my parents’ house. My father sniffed, “Ah, Merlot! That’s a blending wine!” I knew a little about Bordeaux at the time, so I held the peace. But it wasn’t long before I informed him that merlot may be only 50% of the blend in many Medocs, but there are quite a few Right Bank wines, including famous St. Emilions and Pomerols that are up to 90% Merlot.

In her exhaustive Wine Grapes, Jancis Robinson explains that the first noted use of the Merlot grape was in Bordeaux. The name comes from the French for ‘blackbird,’ because apparently these hungry critters were fond of eating the grapes right off the vines. She continues, confirming that Merlot is very widely planted, and frequently used in blending.  Merlot ripens more easily than Cabernet Sauvignon, and this is one of the reasons why it’s so important in Bordeaux. In a less than stellar Left Bank, aka Cabernet vintage, there is still the chance for a stellar Right Bank aka Merlot vintage, such as was reported in 1998. In fact, generally only the upper level red wines from the Left Bank include more than 60% Cabernet Sauvignon. A good example would be Pauillac Chateau Duhart-Milon, an 1855 Fourth Growth, which has around 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, with 28% Merlot and a smidgen of Cabernet Franc in the blend.

Of course, in a vintage of the century like 2010, the tide raises all boats and both banks prosper. For a very tasty example of a more or less fifty-fifty blend, try Chateau Pey du Pont, a 2010 Medoc that is a beautiful example of Bordeaux’s unique earthy quality, while including ripe black and red fruits and enough structure to age and soften for a few years at least. The blend is 50% Merlot, 45% Cabernet, and 5% Cabernet Franc.

Tough Enough for a New York Summer

Speaking of Merlot’s ability to age, another time, I went over to my Aunt Jane’s apartment for dinner and she asked me to pick a wine from a bunch of bottles that had been given to her over the previous couple of years. I spied a bottle of Kendall Jackson Merlot 2005 and decided to pull the cork. Now, we are talking about a six-year-old bottle of wine that had been “stored” in an Upper West Side kitchen through several brutal New York summers and plenty of steam heat in the winter, too. The wine was lovely! A mature red with soft, red and black fruit flavors that went well with a number of delicious meat, fish and vegetable dishes. An impressive feat of resilience and perseverance!

Further Adventures with Merlot

Speaking of Merlot’s flexibility, I once finished a difficult song that I had been writing on Merlot. I had the bridge from another song I had been trying to get across with an earlier band – a bridge which was not dissimilar from ‘Don’t Fear the Reaper.’ It worked perfectly as the chorus in the new song, however. I have Pepperwood Grove Merlot to thank for that. Imagine going from the bridge to the chorus? From stepchild to star!

And let’s not forget our first example of Merlot’s curious dance in the spotlight. Towards the end of Sideways, when the Paul Giammatti character seems to be completely defeated, he hunkers down with some sliders, sneaking sips from his most cherished bottle, 1961 Cheval Blanc.  The blend? About 40% Merlot, with the rest Cabernet Franc.

Staff Pick: Benziger Sonoma Merlot 2011

Opaque purple. Black currants, cherries and oak on the nose – enticing nose. Good, dry finish and balance. A hint of jolly rancher. Tannins on the finish. Fairly soft in the mouth. Medium full body. Smoke and pepper in the finish. Solid, substantial and tasty wine. Chunky and delicious. –Christian Botta

Red Zinfandel – Exuberantly American

In his recent Wine School column, Eric Asimov described Red Zinfandel as being a “polarizing” wine. With its robust fruit, full body, and high alcohol, there will certainly be those who love Zinfandel and those who find it to be too much of a good thing. But whether you’re a neophyte, an expert, or still on the fence, now is the perfect time to pull some corks, because the 2012 vintage is a knockout.

The Back Story

The grape itself has a long history, having originated in Croatia as Tribidrag. It is also called Primitivo, where it flourishes in Italy. But its greatest success is in California, where it is used to make red and “white” Zinfandel. This can be a little confusing, as the highly popular white zinfandel is actually a sweet rose or ‘blush’ wine. Red zinfandel is almost always dry, although the fruit flavors can be so exuberant that it can be jammy at times. There are also more restrained styles of Zinfandel, with somewhat lower alcohol and a dryer fruit profile.

Old Vines

Love ‘em or leave ‘em, Zin represents great value. Many producers use fruit that comes from very old vines, up to one hundred years old and more in some cases. Old vines produce smaller yields and increase concentration and depth. And Zinfandel is a true American wine, having traveled from afar to a place where it can fully express its unapologetically extroverted personality. With Labor Day approaching and summer nearing its end, get ready to fire up the grill and treat yourself to an American classic – Red Zin.

Ridge East Bench 2012 Dry Creek Valley

Deep purple with pink on the rim. Plummy nose with light spices, berries, minerals and smoke. Powerful, sexy, complex nose. Red and black fruits with chocolate on the full-bodied palate. Mouth coating tannins and a long, powerful finish with fruit and tannins. Great balance. Fresh, with mouthwatering acidity. Very integrated in all aspects. Drinking great now, and it really wowed our staff. With air, earth develops on the nose with a hint of band aid (a medicinal aroma) that follows through to the palate. A full-throttled wine, loaded with pleasure. 100% Zinfandel. $32.99

Ridge Geyserville 2012

Opaque purple color. A bit more restrained than the East Bench with smoke, blue, and black fruits on the nose. An elegant, full-bodied palate with red and black fruits that could use a few years in the bottle but is nonetheless a pleasure to drink right now. Has great structure, depth and complexity. The blend is 71% Zinfandel, 19% Carignane, 7% Petite Sirah, 1% Alicante Bouschet and 1% Mataro (Mourvèdre). $37.99

Bedrock 2012 Old Vine Sonoma Valley

When I was first getting into wine, one of my favorite wines was the Ravenswood Vintner’s Blend Zinfandel. So it comes as little surprise that I would totally enjoy the Bedrock Wine Company’s Sonoma Valley Zin, since the founder and winemaker at Bedrock is Morgan Twain-Peterson, the son of Ravenswood Winery founder Joel Peterson. Very pretty ruby/purple color. Subtle nose with flowers, spices, and berries. The rich texture reminds me of a top Northern Rhone Syrah from a hot vintage, such as 2009. Delicious, full-bodied palate with dry extract, spice, berries and cherries. Abundant but smooth tannins. Good balance. Long finish. $29.99

Selby 2012 Sonoma County Old Vines

Dark red with pink and brown highlights. Blackberry and soft spices on the nose. Very round and smooth on the palate with good balance and structure. Full-bodied and packs a punch but has depth. Great Zin at a minimal price. Old Vines with an average of 65 years from Alexander, Dry Creek and Russian River Valleys. 760 Cases produced. $14.99

–Christian Botta

Interest in Sake is Heating Up!

A recent sake tasting at Garnet demonstrated that interest in sake is on the rise. When many of our customers were asked if they would like to taste a selection of sakes, their response was, “Oh, yes! Please!” It’s clear that they are intrigued and open to experimenting, yet many sake newbies have questions. With this in mind, let’s take a look at sake types, grades, serving, and how to choose the best sake for you.

Rice Milling

Rice milling is the key to sake quality. As more of the outer portion of the rice kernel is milled or ground away, a higher quality sake is produced.  Other important factors include whether or not alcohol is added, pasteurization, and filtering. The categorization of sake can be a little confusing, but we’ll do our best to make things crystal clear.

Sake Categories and Grades

The most basic type of sake is Futsu-shu. More alcohol may be added than in the higher grades, and there is no minimum rice milling requirement. Junmai sake is a step up in quality. Although the milling rate must be listed on the bottle, there is no minimum requirement. No alcohol may be added. Honjozo grade sake requires that 30% of the rice must be milled away; alcohol may be added. Tokubetsu means “special,” and is a designation that can be added as a pre-fix, as in “Tokubetsu-Junmai.” Gingo grade sake must have at least 40% of the rice milled away. There are both Junmai Gingo and plain Gingo sakes. Paying attention? Alcohol may be added to the Gingo, but not Junmai-Gingo!  Top grade sake is called Daigingo, which must have a minimum of 50% of the rice milled away. It can be either Junmai-Daigingo or just Daigingo, in which alcohol may be added. Top Junmai-Daigingo have an ethereal smoothness that is worth seeking out, although the prices are high.

Another type of sake which many sake lovers know is Nigori, which is unfiltered. This produces a cloudy, milky effect and heavier, softer texture. Many Nigori are somewhat sweet on the palate, although there are Nigori that are strikingly dry. Sweet Nigori make perfect dessert sake. Namazake designates sakes that are un-pasturized. They have a round texture and beautiful depth. Some are faintly sweet, with earthy round flavors. They are good for aperitifs, with the meal, or after dinner enjoyment. Both Nigori and Namazake must be refrigerated.

Sake Producers

When choosing a sake, in much the same way as when choosing a fine wine, the producer can’t be overemphasized. Top producers to look for include Ichishima, Wakatake, Nanbu Bijin, and Eiko Fuji, although there are many other producers of fine sake, including some in California, such as Sho Chiku Bai. What do top producers do that the others don’t? It’s mainly about the care that goes into the brewing, quality of rice, and other factors. Some top producers may mill at a higher rate within a given quality designation than is required. For example, Ichishima’s Futsu-shu sake has a 35% average milling rate, higher than the required rate for Honjozo.

Dry Vs. Sweet

Customers often ask me, ‘Is sake sweet?’ Not generally. There are some sweet sakes, such as a sweet nigori or specialty sakes that are flavored and usually low in alcohol, and mostly made for the U.S. market. But the majority of sake is technically dry with only a slight fruitiness, and some are aggressively dry.

Serving Sake

OK, so now you’ve got your sake – how are we going to serve it? Many people think of sake as being served warm in little cups or box-shaped cedar vessels, and of course you can still do that – it creates an extremely cozy effect, and brings out different flavors and textures. The best sakes are meant to be served chilled however, and a medium-sized wine or other type of glass will help to enhance the aromatics.

The names of many sakes describe the desired results: Demon Slayer, Super Demon Slayer, Drunken Heart. Is it my imagination or does sake have a special, calming effect that few other libations provide? There is something about a good Nama or Daigingo that seems to melt away the worries of the world. Let your own palate and by extension, spirit be the judge. And don’t forget to join us for a one day sake sale at Garnet on August 20, 2014, where there will be a 10% discount on every bottle of sake sold. We will also have an in-store sake tasting that day from 4:30 to 7:30pm – don’t miss it!  –Christian Botta

Welcome

Welcome to Garnet’s brand new wine and spirits blog! Please stop by with us virtually and you can read and learn about wines, wine regions, spirits and other beverages, plus news and events, and personalities in the wine and spirits industry.

Thanks for checking in and see you around!

-Garnet