Jim Clendenen - Au Bon Climat's 'Mind Behind'

Much has been written about Au Bon Climat winemaker Jim Clendenen, to the point where one might imagine that he is even more complex than his wines. But in person he is open and approachable, much like his delicious pinot noir and chardonnay bottlings are in 2012. I met Jim at his NY Distributor Verity Wines’ portfolio tasting late in the summer and spoke with him on the phone a few weeks later. He told me that Garnet was the first company in Manhattan that he ever sold wine to, way back in 1984. Clendenen is truly a man who loves what he does, and having a conversation with him on winemaking is a real treat.

Located in Santa Barbara County, the Au Bon Climat winery is just about dead center of the Santa Maria Valley AVA. Santa Maria Valley is a cool climate growing region, what many consider the perfect spot for cultivating Chardonnay and Pinot Noir grapes in the Burgundian style. Jim started Au Bon Climat in 1982, and he has long been associated with Bob Lindquist, who went on to found Qupé, another French-influenced Santa Barbara Winery. “Bob and my friendship and working relationship is unchanged,” Jim says.  “We’re still really good friends, we still make wine in the same building since 1989.”

2014 Vintage

When I spoke with Jim, the crop was still on the vines. I asked him how the 2014 vintage was turning out. “We will pick well earlier, color good, smaller yields, ie two tons vs 3.5 ton range. Not as top notch as 2012-13. It worked out just fine for somebody that wants to make wine the way I want to make wine. We just want to make balanced wines and preserve the acidity.” When asked what he thought of the difficult 2011 vintage, he responded, “Only thing with 2011s is trying to make money,” suggesting that he is OK with drinking a leaner styled, more delicate wine.

The Use of Indigenous Yeast

On the subject of indigenous yeast, a hot topic for today’s winemakers, Jim explained, “I want the yeast to be active. I want it to make the wine go dry. We tried indigenous yeast for a long time. We never had much luck. We add a yeast cultivated in Germany to our chardonnay for example. No one knows what the most dominant yeast is. We don’t want to end up with a stuck fermentation. We want to have things start in balance, and we want to have them finish.”

Wine Ingredients on Bottles?

Another question facing wineries now is the subject of what information should be put on wine labels regarding ingredients. Jim declares that the process would be “pretty straight forward for us. The amount of things that we put in are few and far between. Tartaric acid, (for example). I object to doing anything systematically. We don’t add water unless absolutely necessary.”

Marching to a Different Drummer

Considering his somewhat rebellious image, it isn’t too surprising to hear Jim’s response regarding the trend of bigger and bigger wines. “The critical paradigm in America goes for easy flavors. They found our wine nervous, acidic and tight.” As to the critical faves and top scoring wines, he adds that he finds them “bombastic – they deliver a boring product. That’s all I’m gonna say.”

Asked about his influences and idols in winemaking, he points to numerous Burgundian masters. But the names of his friend Dominique Lafon, the managing director of the Compte-Lafon in Meursault, and Henri Jayer, the Cotes de Nuits legend, seem to come up again and again. He adds that “There are a million Burgundian models.”

The attractive labels on Jim’s wines are nothing out of the ordinary – the pinot noir has purple coloring, and the chard has golden yellow lettering. But when you look a little closer and see that the title of ‘winemaker’ has been replaced by ‘Mind Behind,’ you know you are in for something a little different. The reasonable pricing of Clendenen’s Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, around $20, makes them very attractive choices for the budding wine geek looking to try something a bit conceptual that is also the product of experience, dedication and great terroir.

Au Bon Climat Pinot Noir 2012

Translucent ruby red. Strawberries, incense and cherries on the nose. Crème Fraise on the nose. A floral quality as well – roses? Medium bodied and elegant. Very light tannins at first, very ripe fruit. Good balance although not a ton of acidity for a Pinot Noir. Very good finish. Smooth texture. “Alcohol soaked cherries,” says my friend Danny. Has the weight and complexity of a nice Chassagne-Montrachet Rouge in a ripe vintage, which 2012 certainly is. Tannins and acidity come up at the end of the bottle suggesting that the wine will age well in the medium term.

Au Bon Climat Chardonnay 2012

A bright medium gold color. Nose a little shy right now. Some oak on the nose but not overpowering along with light cream and citrus. What a palate though! Medium bodied. Excellent flavors of citrus, mineral, and lemon meringue pie. Delicious stuff. Clean, bright acidity. Excellent balance. Vibrant. Explosive mid-palate and a very long finish. Really satisfying and fun to drink. Everyone on the staff loved it. –Christian Botta